Lets kick off the second week in our search for The Next Team Driver. This week we asked our contestants to give us their best R/C tip. Now I had planned out this big wonderful way to present this to our viewers but alas Facebook just isn't letting me do it. Ah well, this will have to do. Please read the 9 replies on the Week 2 Facebook Post and Like the one you feel is the best R/C tip.

But wait there's more.....keep reading for what we are doing for this weeks giveaway and deals.

**Giveaway winner will be chosen at random. All you have to do is Like one of our Contestants best R/C tip**

Week 2:
Giveaway winner will have a choice of any of our OT shafts.... SCX10, Wheely King, AR60, Ascender, SCX10 narrow.

Awesome Promotions below:
First up is 20% off all Protek products. Please use code "protek20" in the codes field.

20% off all Avid products – Please use code “avid20” in the codes field

All of our OT Rear axle shafts are marked down 20%. No code necessary.

Free magnet with orders of $30 or more. While quantities last (just add one to your cart)

Free hat with orders of $100 or more. While quantities last (just add one to your cart)

Thank you to everyone for your support

Week 2 contest ends: Nov1, 2017 9:00pm EST

So my number 1 tip is for folks running with leaf springs. Don't go crazy trying to get flex. So many people go nuts with red leaves and shooter shackles and the first bit of power put through it they twist and bind up. Start with the stock setup and remove and reconfigure as you drive and learn your rig and what it needs. I've done it myself with my first tf2. Lol. Since have learned a lot on the topic from lots of trial and error.

I got 2. The first one is simple and effective. This helps out with your bearings all year round. Even more in the winter. WD40 Specialist (silicone water resistant) saves bearings.

Trick #2 I was just thought this one a couple of months ago. Axial bead locks wheels Copperhead BB under your wheel weights for more weight. If you use weights in your wheels.

A tip I've given to many but have also seen others do is to use an old or inexpensive ESC for your winch controller. One of the biggest gaps in winch controllers is that they are single speed in and out. It's great if it's just there for looks but if you want to use it and plan to have a lot of voltage (3s or more) an esc is the way to go.
Using a 3rd or 4th channel. Setup the channel to increment in steps. This will give you multiple speeds out and in.

This is critical mostly when winching in. Especially if you're trying to avoid a gate marker. Keeping it slow and steady while you use throttle appropriately. Then when your through, kick it in high speed to spool up the winch. Plus with a higher speed out, you can be ready for obstacles when in a timed competition. Much more than your buddy who's winch takes about 2 minutes to unspool and respool.

Here's my tip... we have all been in the position where we have soldered a nice connector on. Forgot the heat shrink.. well have no fear. You don't have to unsolder and put the heat shrink on and re solder. This also works when the wire is short and the chance of the shrink tube shrinking from the soldering.

Here's a little trick I learned.. all you need to do is take the heat shrink and a set of needle nose pliers. Slowly and gently stretch the heat shrink out until it will fit over your connector, heat up like normal and bam all done.

Here is my tip, it has to do with repairing cracks in lexan bodies. I have been using this since the mid 90s. It is no secret that the bodies on our rigs take a beating and sometimes cracks happen. Just because you get a crack or tear is no reason to throw out the body. This is a cheap and easy way to save that body. All you will need is some Shoe Goo and some Cross Stitch Fabric. A set of rubber gloves is optional, they will keep you from getting Shoe Goo on your hands.
First thing to do is to clean the body around the crack. I use soap and water to great success. Make sure you completely dry the body before going any further.
Next align the crack so it is close to sealed up. Cut a section of the cross stich fabric to a size slightly bigger than the crack. Now is a good time to put on gloves. Open the Shoe Goo and apply it to the inside of the body over the crack and onto a section larger than the piece of fabric. now take your Cross Stich Fabric and press it into the Shoe Goo. Take your Shoe Goo and put a layer over the Cross Stich Fabric. Now you will take your finger and press it into the Shoe Goo and work it into the fabric so it impregnates the entire piece, this will add strength to the repair.
You are now finished on the inside of the body but some Shoe Goo may of worked its way through the crack and onto the outside of the body. Have no fear, easy to clean up. Take a paper towel and wipe off the excess. There will be some residue left on the body but that is no big deal, take a fresh paper towel with some rubbing alcohol on it and you can gently rub the extra off of the outside of the body.
There you go, your body is now ready to go and see much more abuse.

My rc tip is something I've done that has saved me some hassle many times. So after you've been running your rig for a while, your drive shafts tend to be beat pretty hard, at least mine do anyway now let's get back to it, I use my soldering iron with the pointed tip (so that it fits into the head of your set screw) to heat up the thread lock up which will soften, so that when you try to loosen it you don't have that tension with the thread lock being a solid. It keeps the heat concentrated in one spot unlike if you were trying to use a lighter or a small butane torch. You don't have to worry about catching anything on fire and well we don't want to have a tiny truck fire.

Pretty simple and not sure if it's really a tip, stay organized and keep your stuff clean. A clean truck is a good running tuck. A clean workbench is an effective workbench and an organized driver is an efficient driver. By keeping your truck clean it is easier to maintain, loose bolts or other things are seen easier and can be fixed. Organization can be the difference between a win and losing. I guess that sums it up

My tip would be waterproofing!! So many things are sold as "waterproof" yet the are barely water resistant at best. Silicone conformal coating is a life saver and can be used to waterproof almost anything! I use it on receivers, servos, esc's, even the circuit boards in my cameras. Just take whatever you want to waterproof out of it's casing, brush on a couple light coats of conformal coating and put it back together. It works so well that I have race drones that I will fly outside in a full blown rain storm and have never had an issue with anything shorting out.

My number one crawling RC tip is to learn how your truck handles and reacts while driving. By practicing driving and understanding how your truck handles, you can then make better decisions when picking lines or driving through gates to put yourself in the best possible spot to drive the line or gate.

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