Where is my order?

All tracking information is available from the "Account" tab when you are logged into the site.
All tracking information is also emailed to you when the order ships.

If you do not get a timely email with tracking information based on the shipping times in our terms and conditions, please either login to your "Account" OR check your email spam folder.

If your USPS tracking info says "Shipment Received, Package Acceptance Pending", it means USPS received your item as part of a bulk pickup. Individual packages are usually scanned again at the local post office or regional distribution center within a few days. Unfortunately, sometimes they are not scanned again until they get to your post office or are delivered! So, even if your tracking info says acceptance pending for several days, please be assured it IS on it's way.

Please note that we have no additional way to track your package and have no insider information as far as any delivery service go. The information you get on our site (or the service site like usps.com) is the only information we have.


How did Locked Up RC get started?

The term "Locked Up" refers to a vehicle that has differential lockers installed, thus having maximum traction off road.

Locked Up RC provides an array of quality parts that meet or exceed builder demands and have proven themselves in competition. We only carry parts that our team runs and stands behind because we want to bring you only the best in "Scale Performance Parts".

We strive to bring you the best parts we can and your input is always welcome. So, if you have any questions, thoughts or comments for us, please let us know.

- Locked Up RC Team

A few notes from the owner:
I started in the RC hobby back in 1986 with a gold pan Team Associated RC10 and have loved RC's since.

In 2006, I dove into the local Texas RC crawling scene with my first crawler.
I have since had more than I care to count.

After several successful USRCCA seasons, I started building and modifying scale trucks, AKA "Scalers" and won several local competitions. In 2011 I traveled to Helena, Montana for the MSD Scale Nationals with my heavily modified Axial SCX10. The truck featured several innovation designs that I had refined over time. The competition was fierce and I recall having to sprint while jumping my truck through the final gate to win class 1. I had battled against some of the best drivers out there and came out on top!

After MSD I refined ideas, manufactured parts and opened Locked Up RC at the end of 2011.

Currently we provide fellow crawlers with some of the best items on the planet.
In addition to offering some tried and true parts, parts that I used to become a national champion, we continue to develop new and exciting ideas every day.

Patrick "Locked Up" Norton


What is the difference between your 8L, SLW & AO8™ wheel types?

We feature 3 types of wheels at Locked Up RC:

8L™ (8 Lug) Mounts to a 12mm wheel hex.

AO8™ (8 Lug) Uses an AO8 axle flange to mount to the axle pin.

SLW (6 Lug) Uses an SLW hex hub to mount to a 12mm wheel hex.

In addition to a different number of lugs, each style also has a different bolt pattern diameter. This allows for more (or less) wheel face design as you can see from the below example.

With the milled in hex, our 8L wheels are a great choice to replace your stock plastic wheels. These wheels feature offsets and backspacing similar to stock. This keeps your scrub radius close to stock while increasing scale appearance and strength. Because the hex is milled into the wheel there is nothing extra to buy. 8L wheels make use of M2 hardware around the "hub".

Both SLW & AO8™ allow you to modify your effective offset/backspacing. This is accomplished by purchasing different SLW hubs or AO8™ axle flanges. This is a great feature if you want a wider stance for stability, but it does add a bit to the cost.

-SLW wheels use 4-40 hardware to attach to SLW hex hubs.
-AO8™ wheels use M2 hardware to attache to AO8™ axle flanges.


What finish options do you offer?

We utilize several processes for finishing our parts that we make available to you. As with any manufactured part, there may be some color and finish variance between batches.

Black Oxide:
Black oxide or blackening is a conversion coating for ferrous materials, stainless steel, copper and copper based alloys, zinc, powdered metals, and silver solder. It is used to add mild corrosion resistance, for appearance and to minimize light reflection. To achieve maximal corrosion resistance the black oxide must be impregnated with oil or wax. One of its advantages over other coatings is its minimal buildup.

We use black oxide for a variety of parts including several varieties of our hardware and chassis parts.

Zinc Plating:

Zinc coatings prevent oxidation of the protected metal by forming a barrier and by acting as a sacrificial anode if this barrier is damaged. Zinc oxide is a fine white dust that does not cause a breakdown of the substrate's surface integrity as it is formed. Indeed, the zinc oxide, if undisturbed, can act as a barrier to further oxidation, in a way similar to the protection afforded to aluminum and stainless steels by their oxide layers.

We use zinc plating on a lot of our hardware and some specialty parts that require a specific appearance.

Color Anodizing:

Anodizing is a process that provides a conversion on aluminum which changes the surface of the material to a naturally occurring aluminum oxide. The oxide build up changes the surface of the aluminum which then provides greater abrasion resistance as well as increased corrosion protection (roughly 336 hours per ASTM B117). The finish will not only build up the aluminum oxide on the surface 0.0002? – 0.0003? thick, but will also penetrate into the material the same amount. Other than a clear anodize this coating may also be dyed in various colors. The typical industry colors include black, clear, red, and blue. One other interesting property of the aluminum oxide is that it is a great electrical insulator. We use MIL-A-8625 Type II on a variety of our aluminum wheels, rings and accessories that we have anodized locally by metal finishing shops. Parts that are anodized locally may vary from shop to shop and from parts that are finished by a non-local specialty shop we use on other parts (See "B, C, G, H" designation below).

Although we do try to specify when colors match, it can still vary from batch to batch and part to part. So if you see a part listed "TX Gold" it will likely be a close match to another part listed as "TX Gold", but may not be identical from batch to batch. If you see a part listed as "Red (G)" it will NOT match a part listed as "Red". A part listed as "Gold (G)" will NOT match a part listed as "TX Gold", etc. Best practice is ALWAYS to buy all of what you need when you need it to ensure the best matches possible.

"B, C, G Designation" Some of our anodized parts will carry a single capital letter designation such as B, C or G . This means the part has a specific finish applied to it BEFORE anodizing, which impacts the final product in various ways. You can find more info on the actual finishes in the Natural (Raw) Aluminum Finishes) section.
"B" - This part had a Bright finish before anodizing and will be quite shiny.
"C" - This part received a Cinder finish before anodizing and will be more matte finish.
"G" - The part undergoes different bath and finishing techniques which removes all of the machining marks. The part comes out with a slightly textured "Glossy" anodized finish.  Because parts finished in this manner are done by a specialty shop that is not local, we are only able to do very large batches of parts in this manner. The colors from this shop will vary from the colors from our local shop so please be aware of this.
No Designation - Parts that do not have a designation received our standard Hand finish before anodizing
EXAMPLE: "Black (C)" would mean the part was anodized black after receiving a Cinder finish.

"TT" Some of our parts will have a finish we call Regrind (AKA Two Tone). These parts are anodized, then a Hand Finish is applied to remove the color anodizing from the top surface. Getting a part with this finish is actually a custom service we offer: SERVICES and is available for most of our rings.

Golden Chemical Film coating:

Chemical Film is a chromate conversion coating which may be applied to aluminum parts in order to enhance corrosion protection while still maintaining conductivity (unlike anodizing). Chemical Film is also be used to improve adhesion for future paints and primers. This process may be done in both a clear or a golden finish. A clear finish is near colorless and provides minimal electrical resistance; whereas, the golden finish is much thicker and is mainly used to increase corrosion protection as well as paint adhesion. The typical chemical film coating should provide roughly 168 hours of salt spray per ASTM B 117. We use MIL-C-5541 Class 1A on a variety of our aluminum wheels rings and accessories. Not scratch resistant.

Natural (Raw) Aluminum Finishes:
We use use different processes to achieve various looks on non anodized aluminum products.
These finishes are not scratch resistant like anodizing.

Please note that although 2 items may have the same finish listed, they may not look exactly the same.
Some variance is to be expected.

-Cinder Finish:
Cinder Finish (C) means the part has been treated with various media and bath techniques which generally removes all machining marks from the important visible areas. This finish gives the part a VERY consistent finish that looks like a cross of clear anodizing and powder coating. Parts finished with our Cinder process are able to be refinished to a like new condition here in the shop. This finish can be applied to any of our non-anodized parts by adding the applicable SERVICE to your cart.

Hand Finish vs Cinder Finish shown on 1.9" Manga SLW Internal:

Click for large version (opens in new window)

-Hand Finish:
Hand Finish is our "default" finish. Parts with Hand finish may not have a letter designation (sometimes denoted as an H though). Hand Finish means the part has been hand ground and/or polished to minimize machining marks from the important visible areas. This finish gives the part a smooth surface that can frequently be further polished by the purchaser if desired. We strive to have parts from a given batch feature the same amount of sheen; however, this involves hand applied techniques. So parts may very between a satin luster to a more to eggshell matte. Due to the potential variance, we ALWAYS recommend you order wheels (or rings) in sets of 4 so that they will be the best possible match.

Bright Finish vs Hand Finish shown on 1.9" Manga SLW Internal:

Click for large version (opens in new window)

-Bright Finish:
Bright Finish (B) is the closest to "machine" finish that we offer. We carefully deburr, wash then gently buff to retain most of the machine finish brightness. This results in a part with a shiny, reflective surface. It is not a true mirror surface and machining marks may be more or less visible depending on the individual part. As with our Hand finished parts there may be some variance in batches so we do recommend ordering parts in complete sets.

-Polished Finish:
Polished Finish (PF)is similar in light reflection to Bright Finish but is achieved in a VERY different way. We carefully deburr the part then take down the majority of the visible machine marks on the upper surfaces similar to our Hand Finish. Next, we go through a series of buffing and polishing stages to bring back a high shine to the surface. This results in a part with a reflective surface and MUCH less machine marks than our Bright Finish. Note that we are NOT able to polish between spokes on on lower stepped faces. For example, on our TRHD wheels, the steps inside the cut outs would not be polished and would retain a machine finish. We HIGHLY recommend ordering these parts in complete sets to ensure you get matching sheen between parts. We do not ensure matches between orders.

-PTH Finish:
PTH means "Polished To Hell".  This is our Polished finish on steroids.  We first deburr and remove 99-100% of the visible machine marks on the important visible surfaces. Then we buff until the part is incredibly smooth and reflective, like a mirror. Finally, we apply a liquid polish to enhance the mirror-like surface. This is quite labor intensive and only available for the "top" layer of our rings. For example on a ring like our Tarantula, only the upper (outer) portion would receive this finish. The lower (inner) portion could receive any of our other finishes. We HIGHLY recommend ordering these parts in complete sets to ensure you get matching sheen between parts. We do not ensure matches between orders.


How do you determine backspacing & offset?

We frequently get questions about how to determine offset & backspace for our wheels vs. "whatever wheels you currently have on your vehicle".
***For all of these measurements, we are going to assume you have beadlock rings installed on both the front and back of the wheel and that both rings are the same thickness.
If you don't have a beadlock, that is OK. Just measure form the outermost and innermost edges of the wheel.

So we are all talking apples to apples here is how we use the terms:
Backspacing: The distance from the wheel mount face (where your wheel hex goes) to the inner most part of the wheel.
Offset: The distance from the wheel mount face to the center line of the wheel.
Positive Offset: When the wheel mount face is closer to the outer bead on the wheel
Zero Offset: When the wheel mount face is even with the center line of the wheel
Negative Offset: When the wheel mount face is closer to the inner bead on the wheel
Comparison Number: This is a term/calculation we use to help determine your offset change when switching between wheel types.

For each wheel type we will help you calculate your backspacing, width, offset and your Comparison Number.

How to measure a standard hex wheel (LURC 8L, Axial SCX10, etc)
To figure out your offset, our formula (yes, math outside of school .... we know) is:
Offset = B - (W/2)
B= Backspacing
W= Width
Start by pulling a backspace measurement like we do for our 8L wheels:

Call that measurement "B" and for our example lets say it's B=18mm.

Now measure the entire width of the wheel (with the rings).
Call that "W" and for our example W=30mm.

So we have Offset = 18 - (30/2)
Or 18 - (15) = 3
So the example wheel has a positive offset of 3
(Yours could be negative)

For an 8L wheel your offset equals your comparison number so it's easy!

How to measure an SLW style wheel
To figure out your offset, our formula again is:
Offset = B - (W/2)
B= Backspacing
W= Width

So, pull a backspace measurement like we do for our SLW style wheels:

Call that measurement "B" and for example lets say B=14.75mm.

Now measure the entire width of the wheel (with the rings).
Call that "W" and for this example W=34mm.

That makes your formula look like this:
Offset = B - (W/2)
Offset = 14.75 - (34/2)
Offset = -2.25

To get a Comparison Number you need:
CN= O - HM

O is offset
HM is Hub Measurement .

The VP .225 has about 2.15mm of meat between where your wheel hex touches the hub and where the hub touches the wheel face:

That 2.15 becomes your HM number....
.185 HM: 1.2mm
.225 HM: 2.15mm
.350 HM: 5.33mm
.475 HM: 8.5mm
.600 HM: 11.68mm

So then we have
CN= O - HM
CN= -2.25-2.15
CN= -4.4

For the example wheel with an offset of -2.25 you get the following Comparison Number with various SLW hubs:
.185: -3.45mm
.225: -4.4mm
.350: -7.58
.475: -10.75
.600: -13.93

How to measure for an AO8 wheel
To figure out your offset, our formula one more time is:
Offset = B - (W/2)
B= Backspacing
W= Width

So we pull a backspace measurement like we do for all our AO8 style wheels:

Call that measurement "b" and for example lets= say b=12.15mm.
Now measure the entire width of the wheel (with the rings).
Call that "W" and for this example W=27mm.
That makes your formula look like this:
Offset = B - (W/2)
Offset = 13 - (27/2)
Offset = -.5

Now to get the Comparison Number we need:
CN= O + FM - WH
FM is Flange Measurement.
WH is Wheel Hex (that you are removing).

The AO8 285 flange has 2.85mm of meat between where your pin touches the flange and where the flange touches the wheel face:

That 2.85 becomes you FM number:
285 FM= 2.85mm
485 FM= 4.85mm
685 FM= 6.85mm
885 FM= 8.85mm

Most narrow wheel hexes have 2.85mm of material between the pin and wheel face.
Most thicker one have about 4mm.
The 2mm or 4mm is your "WH" number.

Lets say you are going to a 285 FM and had a narrow wheel hex.

CN= O - FM + WH
CN= -.5 - 2.85 + 2.5mm
CN= -.85

Now, let's put this to the test with an example...
You are moving from an 8L wheel to an AO8 with a 285 flange. You were also running a standard Axial wheel hex.

The 8L has a backspacing measurement of 13mm and width of 27mm.
Offset= B-(W/2)
Offset= 13 - (27/2)
Offset= -0.50mm
O= CN= -0.50mm

The AO8 has a backspacing of 13, a width of 27mm and you will use a 285 Flange.
Offset= B - (W/2)
Offset= 13 -(27/2)
Offset = -5
CN= O + FM - WH
CN= -.5 - 2.85 + 4mm
CN= .65

So we compare the -.5 (8L) to the .65 (AO8 ) and you have a +1.15mm change in the Comparison Number.
This means with the AO8 wheel setup your offset will change by +1.15mm, sucking your wheel in by 1.15mm compared to the 8L setup and the thick wheel hex.


If you look at the numbers you can really hurt your brain ... so one way we've made it easy for you is this:

An AO8 with a 285 will give you the same stance as a stock SCX10, or one of our 8L wheels, or one of our SLW wheels with a .185 hub.

In other words, we measure the stock SCX10 wheel (with our beadlock rings) to be 27mm wide with a backspace of 13mm, giving you an offset (and Comparison Number) of -0.50mm.

For every size up AO8 you get 2mm wider.

We measure a stock Wraith wheel to be 41mm wide, with a backspace of 26mm.
That makes the offset (and Comparison Number) a +5.5.

Our 2.2 SLW with a .185 and our 8L will both offer a similar stance to the Wraith wheel but because they are narrower you have less backspacing ... so more knuckle/link clearance.

Our 2.2 AO8 has width of 30.5 and backspacing of 18mm, for an offset of +2.75mm.
Assuming a 285 flange and that you removed a narrow wheel hex you get a Comparison Number of 2.65.

As you can see, our A08 with a 285 has an offset that is 2.65mm less (pokes out more) than a Wraith wheel, our 8L and our SLW.

And again, for every size up AO8 you get 2mm wider.


Which wheels will fit my truck?

In order to help offer some guidance as to which of our wheels will fit a given truck, we created this google spreadsheet:
Wheel Fit Chart

To use this chart, select the correct tab for your truck. Lets say you have a TRX-4, so you'd select the TRX-4 tab
Find the row with the wheels you are considering. Lets say you are interested in our 1.55 wheels, so you'd look at row 3.
Column b is the narrowest hub flange etc you can run without modification to truck. So for example, for your trx-4, with no modifications, you'd want purchase 735-hex ao8 axle flanges get it as narrow possible
Columns C and beyond give you options to possibly go narrower with modifications, So if you want to go narrower, you could purchase 285 TRX-4 axle flanges and lightly sand the top ofthe stock portal covers for the narrowest fit possible.
Each truck is different, so be sure to select the correct tab at the bottom of the document!

This is a living document that we update as we receive information.
Although we do our best to measure everything, we do make mistakes so this is to be used as a guide only.
All fitments are done with original parts ONLY...We cannot account for all the aftermarket parts out there!
We appreciate feedback on it so if you see something out of whack, please let us know!


Do your wheels/rings fit other brands?

Our wheels and rings are made to work together exclusively.
Other than a few specific exceptions they WILL NOT work with other brands.

Our 1.9" Rings "fit" original Axial SCX10 plastic 6 hole bead lock wheels, Redcat Racing Gen 8 plastic 6 hole bead lock wheels and Incision plastic 6 hole bead lock wheels. We say "fit" for 2 reasons: First, because you will only use 6 M2x7 screws to hold a ring to the wheel. The additional 18 holes in the rings must be filled with M2x1 screws to complete the look. If that doesn't make sense then we suggest you watch this video to see how our bead locks go together: Bead Lock Review on YouTube. The second reason we say "fit" is because the bolt pattern is NOT a perfect match to the plastic wheels. Since they are plastic though, there is enough give in them to make it work.

The same is true of our 2.2 rings with the original Axial AX10 plastic 6 hole bead lock wheels: 6 M2x7 & 18 M2x1, etc.

Our parts can also fit CNC Customs wheels the same way "IF" they are made to work with our pattern (they make a few types).
You'd need to confirm the pattern with CNC customs as we have no way of knowing.

Our parts WILL NOT WORK with any other brands we are aware of.
That includes, but is not limited to: VP, SSD, RC4WD or China clones.
They might look close...You might get one or two screws in...but if you attempt to mix our parts with these or other vendors you will damage the parts, tools or both.


What width tires do you recommend?

Our wheels have been tested to work with every brand of tire we have come across, including, but not limited to: Axial, Ottsix, Panther, Pitbull, Pro-line, RC4WD, Redcat & Traxxas.

Some tires are easier to mount than others, but most people can easily mount any tires to our wheels. 
Having said that, most issues people have are not due to the tire itself, but the foams they use inside. If you have a wide/dense/firm foam ... you might struggle, strip hardware, and/or break tools.
So, if you are trying to mount up your tires and foams and having a hard time ...stripping hardware/tools... having to force the bead down into the groove ... having to apply undue torque to the little screws, then you need to add a wheel widener or trim your foam.

What options do you offer for 3D printing?

Some of our more basic parts are available for print directly in our shop.
Our in house options for 3D printing include both Stereolithography Apparatus and Fused Deposition Modeling in various color options.
Available options are listed on individual product pages.
All our 3D printed parts are inspected for fit and look but may slightly vary from part to part.

Stereolithography Apparatus or "SLA" uses a liquid photo-polymer resin that is UV cured layer by layer.
SLA produces high resolution parts but the colors are limited.
The SLA process is long and resin is costly, making SLA parts cost more than FDM parts.
SLA parts will have a bottom that is slightly textured and highly uniform.
The top tends to be smooth and highly uniform.
Sides will show very small layer line if any.

Fused Deposition Modeling or "FDM" uses various plastic filaments which are heated and extruded layer by layer.
FDM produces strong, slightly flexible parts and we have a wide range of color options.
FDM parts are faster to print but will show more layer marks and are less detailed/accurate than SLA parts.
FDM parts may require you to remove small "hairs" of filament for a fully processed look..
FDM parts may also require you to remove small burrs similar to removing plastic parts from an injection molded parts tree.

FDM has a few different finish options depending on the print bed we use and the part orientation.
-Matte: Low gloss, good uniformity
-Rough: High Gloss, poor uniformity
-Smoothed: Medium Gloss, Medium Uniformity
If we specify a finish then it mean the most visible surface will be that finish.
For instance, if we say "Matte" for a Ring Insert, then the visible surface when mounted will be Matte.
The bottom may be another texture and the sides will show visible layer lines.

We also have a Shapeways storefront with more printing options than you can shake a stick at.
Parts made by Shapeways are made with massive industrial printers.
Because of this they are able to produce some prints that we cannot make locally.
Parts like our low weight spare wheels are exclusively on Shapeways.

Shapeways parts tend to look nicer than our in house FDM parts but will take longer to get and will cost more.
They offer several different material options (even gold!?).

For ANY of our 3D Printing options, if you don't see something you want, drop us a note as we can frequently add things to the store or Shapeways within a day or two!


What is the Layered Composition Render I see for some product photos?

We offer a TON of different beadlock wheel & ring options.
Like ... Eleventy billion.

In order for us to take a photo of each possible combination would take an insane amount of time.
We don't have that much time. So, we take a single wheel photo then overlay additional part photos (rings, tire, etc). The end result is a composite image (Layered Composition Render) of what a given wheel/ring combo looks like, approximately.

We say approximately because this system is not 100% accurate. It IS usually very close though and we get better as time goes on. The inaccuracy comes from layers not being perfectly aligned. Misalignment is due to both equipment changes and human error during the layer creation process. This is sometimes evident when viewing product photos and it looks like a wheel (or ring) doesn't move but the other parts shift when going form one image to another.


Where else can I find your products?

USA Distributors:
We provide parts to local hobby shops from coast to coast (literally) but are not in every store across the country ... yet. If your local shop does not carry our brand, please ask them to fill out our dealer application. The process is quick and easy!

Locked Up RC does limited shipping to international locations through our store. If you are unable to checkout through the store, please contact us or one of our international distributors below.

International Distributors:

Xtreme RC

Ebay (Limited & seasonal selection)


How can I become a distributor?

If you own a hobby store and would like to become a distributor, please fill out the Dealer Application


Do you have a retail store I can visit?

Although we are a online storefront only, we do offer the ability for Austin, TX locals to pickup their order and avoid shipping charges.
For more information, please contact us BEFORE ordering.


Where can I find the store terms and conditions?

You can find our terms and conditions HERE .


Where can I find product licensing info?

You can contact us for logo and licensing info.
For Trademark and Patent info, please click HERE.


Do you sponsor events?

As of January 1, 2018 we will ONLY be sponsoring events that we attend. So, to get your event sponsored please get a hold of one of our Team Drivers and invite them to your event.

Once a Team Driver confirms attendance, they will work with us on processing the sponsorship.


How can I become a Team Driver?

About once a year we hold "The Next Team Driver" competition (AKA TNTD). During this competition we put several contestants through a series of challenges and the public votes on a winner. Visit our TNTD Forum, follow us on Facebook and Subscribe to our YouTube Channel for the latest information!


Do you have any coupon codes?

Occasionally we do.
Any coupon code that we offer to the general public would be listed right on our homepage above the "Featured Products". If you are on the home page and do not see any listed ... then we do not have any generally available.

Occasionally we also have a "Flash Coupon". These are our version of a door buster coupon and only good for a limited number of people. The best way to find out about these are you watch our videos on Youtube.

How do I use my store credit?

If you received store credit for a returned item, combined shipping, or any other reason, that credit will automatically apply itself on the very last stage of checkout of you next order. There is nothing you need to do to use it and it cannot be bypassed. It is 100% automatic and unavoidable.